How To Choose The Right Bass Strings

Every subtle variation in texture, tone and tension you feel with different types of guitar strings is magnified by the larger gauge of bass strings. Choosing the wrong set of strings on either instrument is frustrating, but on a bass you’re reminded of the bad choice with every pluck.

Certain types of strings can literally make your bass feel like a different instrument. For beginning players or those switching from guitar to bass, the number of string options can be overwhelming. This guide breaks it down to the four things you should consider to ensure your set will best fit with your instrument and style of playing.

Gauge

The gauge or thickness of your strings makes a huge difference in tone and in playability. Thicker strings might have a more robust tone, but they are also harder to fret. Expect hand fatigue for awhile if you haven’t played with them before.

There’s no hard rule for choosing the right gauge. Even manufacturers don’t have a set formula for which gauges should go together in a set. At the end of the day, it all boils down to the sound you’re trying to achieve and what feels most inspiring to your hands when playing.

A good starting point is a standard medium set of strings - generally .045 to .105 for four strings (referring to thousandths of an inch). This is what most factories use when shipping out brand new instruments. Inoffensive, but not optimized for certain styles.

If medium gauge strings feel too arduous to play because you have smaller fingers or like to play a lot of fast “lead bass” or walking bass lines, you might want to go with a lighter gauge, at least for your highest strings. In general, country and funk (slapping techniques) work well with lighter gauges.

If medium gauge strings lack the fatness and meat you’re looking for or you tune down from standard, you know to go for something heavier. Doom, metal and stoner rock bassists are known to set new precedents with the ultra heavy gauge and slackness of their strings.

Using four string sets as a baseline, here’s a reference for bass string gauges:

  • Light - .040 to .100
  • Medium - .045 to .105
  • Heavy - .050 to .110
  • Extra Heavy - .055 to .115

Winding

Electric bass strings all share the same basic construction: a core wire (usually steel) has a wrap around it, in some cases made of the same material as the core but not in others cases. The wrap that winds around the core can be applied in a surprising number of ways, each one of them providing a different feel and tone. Here’s a breakdown of the different winding methods used on bass strings.

Roundwound

These days most of the bass strings you see will be roundwound. They have a steel or nickel wrap of round wire that is wound around the core, producing a series or rounded ridges along the string. They produce the brightest and spankiest tones of any winding method, making them a favorite for rock and funk players. Factories string roundwound on most brand new instruments, and an overwhelming number of famous players endorse this type of string.

Flatwound

Up until the 1960s, these were the only type of bass string available. As the name suggests, a completely flat wire is wound around the core, making them noticeably smoother and more mellow than roundwound strings. For this reason, they remain a favorite with jazz, blues and soul bassists. The smoothness of flatwound strings pairs especially well with fretless basses.

Groundwound

A hybrid of roundwound and flatwound, these strings use a winding that takes a round wire and grinds it down so that one side of it is flat. This produces a string with the brightness and snap of a roundwound with the reduced finger noise and increase smoothness of a flatwound.

Tapewound

For bassists looking to emulate the sound of an upright bass, tapewound strings are the way to go. These black strings have a layer of nylon wrapped around the winding wire, lending a dark and warm tone. These are a fairly uncommon and niche type of string.

Taperwound

This term generally refers not to the winding method itself (they can be round, flat or ground), but to the end of the string where it meets the saddle. Taperwound strings expose the core wire where it makes contact with the bridge saddle, increasing sustain. For this reason, it’s very important to get a set that matches the scale length of your bass if you go with taperwound strings.

Composition & Coating

Even if you have your string gauge and winding type figured out, the type of metals used for the string and what type of coating they have (if any at all) still make a big difference. The durability of your strings in particular are heavily affected by these two traits.

Stainless Steel - Popular with rock, metal and fusion players, these strings have a particularly bright tone with good resistance to corrosion.

Pure Nickel - Often associated with vintage tones, these strings are more mellow and warmer than steel strings due to their lower magnetic response. A favorite among country and soul players.

Nickel-plated Steel - A comfortable and popular compromise between the brightness of stainless steel and warmth pure nickel. The majority of bass players opt for these.

Copper-plated Steel - Bright steel resonance with a copper coating that produces something like an acoustic sheen with shimmering overtones and robust harmonics.

Polymer-coated - Led by the popularity of Elixir strings, most manufacturers now offer a polymer-coated option. These strings have a slightly more buttery feel and definitely retain their tone longer, though some players feel that their fundamental tone isn’t as rich. Just a matter of opinion.

Color-coated - These strings have a polymer coating that is colored, often in bold colors like neon green, pink or red. This is mostly for visual appeal, but it also creates a smoother feel.

Hex-Core - Most bass strings have a hex core wire. However, some manufacturers (DR in particular) often string sets with a round core wire. The articulated edges of the core wire create a tighter wrap and allow for higher string tension, resulting in a crisper, more articulate attack with twang and snap. Easier to tune and slap, harder to bend and play for hours on end.

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