STEREO SPEAKERS MONITORS UPGRADED MODEL 2 WAY AIR CORE and POLY FILM CAPS 4" POLY MICA BUTYLENE BOOKSHELF SURROUND SATELITE SPEAKERS

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Most ANY mass produced speaker system, even systems under 3,000 dollars use cheezy cheap as possible electrolytic capacitors, iron core inductors, and sand cast resistors in the crossovers, that do nothing but smudge and smear the signal BEFORE it even reaches the speakers.

Fellas', the crossover component quality is just AS important, if not MORE important than the quality of the drivers themselves .The signal has to GO THROUGH what ever crossover components are in the signal path, and there's no sense in spending big money on high quality drivers if they are fed poor quality DISTORTED signals from electrolytics, sand cast resistors, and inductors with iron in the center of them.....

Here's your chance to own a decent little PAIR of bookshelf/ satellite /surround speakers, that actually have hi-fi quality crossover components in them.

We acquired a large number of decent little 4.5" 2 way speakers that had good bones in them, but just needed upgraded. I'm not at liberty because of an agreement to say WHO I bought them from, or what BRAND they are sold as, but let's just say it's one of the " Fast Components" delivery people. These were also sold as something rhyming with "Austin Logistics"..(haaahaaa)

Anyhow, what you get are two sweet little bookshelf speakers that have been "Hot-Rodded" are smooth and even, accurate, don't have stored energy issues and reveal the detail and space BETWEEN the notes. Plop on a favorite album, and see if you don't hear that the devil is in the details..

Size wise, these are just under 10" tall, are 5 1/2" wide, and 5 3/4" deep

The enclosures are wood, not composite/plastic, and all butt joint seams have been internally sealed. Even the terminal cup is sealed. Which, by the way will accept a bare wire or the usual banana plugs.

The original wiring- I junked it. They had the usual 22 -24 gauge vinyl insulation junk, so I replaced all of that with pure stranded copper 14 gauge wiring.Its' " Audio Quality/Direct Burial Quality"....without buying wire that's 8 dollars per foot, this is the best you can get, and even has a Teflon coating so you'll never have the degradation and oxidation like PVC wire allows.

All connections are now SOLDERED, so that's a big upgrade as well...

NOTE:

crossovers have again be upgraded to 12dB slopes.

The "thru capacitor" for the tweeter is a high quality poly film cap/audio grade, so you won't have that terrible degrading signal quality to the tweeter, so you'll have soaring highs, air, and sibilance that sets the sound stage.....In a word- CRISP!

AND- Now, I upgraded the tweeter leg to a 12dB circuit which uses an AIR CORE inductor in the "ground leg" of the tweeter section, so the slope is even steeper....

The inductor used for the woofer is an AIR core inductor. NO sand cast resistors anywhere . This way, the woofer "stops" when it's supposed to, without the usual "Bell" or "Ringing" in the signal caused by iron core inductors....It really tightens up the bass response.

* TWEETER HAS AIR CORE INDUCTOR IN THE GROUND LEG AS WELL/ ALL AIR CORES IN XO

AND- I have also upgraded the crossover for the woofer leg to 12dB as well.. It has two capacitors to do this, and a little trickery is involved. The " ground leg" portion does use an electrolytic to ground ( the signal does not pass through this component), because the values need are so high that cap would be a 25 dollar part alone!

BUT- I got the value high enough with an electrolytic, but use a high quality music quality " parallel discharge cap" which is soldered in parallel of the grounding capacitor,. and causes faster discharge to ground, so it operates like a full music quality cap circuit.

Now, as far as the drivers, the tweeter is purposely a small diameter voice coil poly mylar film tweeter. It's a 1/2" tweeter! Plus, it has the ferro-fluid enhancement for performance, cooling and power rating. As many of you know- The smaller the coil/diaphragm, the wider the dispersion, and horizontal/vertical off axis response will be much improved. Think of the famous "Time-Frame" or "Time-Window" speaker models.. ya- THAT type of tweeter!

The woofer is pretty cool. It's a 4.5" model, and has a VIRGIN poly/ mica molded cone, and also has a butylene rubber half roll high compliance/excursion profile. The butylene is a far superior dampener for unbeatable cone edge resonance absorption, NOT producing reflected ./out of time ghost notes, and you'll never have to worry about foam rot like almost all of the others. Oh- I has a radially vented and cooled ALUMINUM voice coil former!

Oh, while I was at it, I stuffed the enclosures with a FIBERGLASS material to absorb the rear energy from the woofer cone. That way, you won't have pressure waves bouncing around inside of the enclosure, and then at a later time, being reflected back out of the speaker cone...Several ounces were used!

It's the little things that really add up to a lot. By starting with a high quality/cost ratio speaker and THEN- doing the upgrades for you, you wind up with a ready-to-run speaker system for the same or LESS cost to you, than the big names can offer you. For the money, these are TREMENDOUS little speakers for the money. People have been talking about the SS-CS5 series speakers, so I wanted to offer a competitive option for you guys.. Plus I outright love doing this stuff...

Oh, The woofer and tweeter have the baffle boards routed out so they sit flush with the face of the speaker front baffle.... This removes the usual deflection issues that would other wise interfere and cause response issues...AND- the side edges have been routed/rounded over to get rid of enclosure diffraction issues caused by sharp corners.....

You can sit these on smooth surfaces with the installed rubber feet, or use the single screw wall mounting tabs if you have to wall mount like a picture.

Plus, the grilles are acoustically transparent, and are MAGNETICALLY mounted by implanted neodymium magnets, so no holes in the baffle board to cause diffraction/appearance issues if you like to run without grilles and no tabs to break off...

I find that set up positioning is important with smaller speakers ( well, ANY speaker for that matter)..Start by placing them in front of your listening position, Place the enclosures a foot or two away from any walls, or large pieces of furniture. Do a few listening tracks, and move farther away or closer together to get that 3 dimensional sound stage that these speakers have the capability of providing, due to those higher quality crossover components...

Again guys, the whole speaker system is a combination of what you do, or what you DON'T do.... paying attention to the little details that really don't cost a whole lot really adds up to a much improved listening experience..

POWER- 40 REAL watts / 40 watts RMS / tube watts.

ACTUAL response- +/- 3dB from 85 hz to 21,500hz

Sensitivity- 87dB@ 1 Watt @ 39"

Impedance- 6-8 ohms

Add a subwoofer to get a true full spectrum deep bass experience, and these are GREAT for pretty much any application under 30 watts RMS, be it for speech monitoring, compact stereo use, medium size PC speakers, satellite speakers, surround speakers or even tossing in the back dash for a quick hi fi in the car/van.

If you guys have any questions or concerns, or have questions about set up for 1,2,3 or more pairs, just ask. I'll be glad to help.

Thanks.