Yamaha MX 1000 Recap Kit. All top quality electrolytic Capacitors

Brand New
$137.14
+$20.70Shipping
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Shipped From
Thegreatcanadiannorthernstar
Winnipeg, Canada
1
Joined Reverb
2019
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About This Listing

THE NEW YAMAHA MX 1000 ELECTROLYTIC RECAP KIT. !!!!!!FINE GOLD EDITION!!!!!!.

1. OFFERS ALL NICHICON MUSE FINE GOLD CAPACITORS FOR THE AMPLIFIER BOARDS, ALL WITH INCREASED VOLTAGE FOR EXTRA QUALITY, AND PERFECT FIT.
2. OFFERS ALL NICHICON FW CAPACITORS AND NICHICON VP BP CAPACITORS FOR THE SPEAKER TERMINAL PC BOARD, PROTECTION CIRCUIT.
3. OFFERS ALL NICHICON MUSE FINE GOLD CAPACITORS IN PLACE OF PRIOR SUPPLIED MUSE ES SERIES AND MUSE KZ CAPACITORS IN THE POWER SUPPLY, WITH UPGRADED VOLTAGE. ALL OTHER CAPS SUCH AS UCC KYB POWER SUPPLY SPECIALTY CAPS AND NICHICON BP P CAPACITORS REMAIN THE SAME.
4. OFFERS ALL NICHICON FW CAPACITORS AND NICHICON VP BP CAPACITORS FOR THE METER CIRCUIT AND SWITCH CIRCUIT BOARDS.
5. FULLY TESTED WITH EXCELLENT PERFORMANCE, 42 CAPS TOTAL.
6, FINE GOLD CAPS SHOWN HERE INSTALLED ON THE LITTLE BROTHER MX 800 JUST ASK FOR THE 800 KIT IF YOU WANT IT INSTEAD OF THE MX 1000 WHEN PURCHASING.
Just a little more choice in addition to my other Yamaha Mx 1000 kit............................................. Fine gold simply allows the use of higher voltage capacitors, in tighter locations. This should increase long term reliability. These are considered very low distortion capacitors, which are the best in the world for signal circuits.
This recap kit will be saving a lot of headache and time for anyone considering the prospects of a recapping their MX 1000 amplifier. I Have provided some helpful hints based on my experience recapping quite a few of these amplifiers now.

No need to worry about getting a readable manual...... No need to worry about New/Old stock capactors, all are ordered FRESH. No need to worry about Fake Chinese capacitors, all these are fresh NORTH AMERICAN SOURCED. This kit saves you all the investigative work involved in preparing to recap your amplifier. This kit includes some higher voltage, as well as higher temperature Low esr caps for extra quality. All "uf" rating remain the same. Just pull one cap and replace with another of the same value.(except amplifer boards) Proper Polarity is indicated by each capacitor mounting surface. Negative lead goes to black marked side of the circle.  
Power supply capacitors,  (The four sections shipped in different bags for easy identification, see first picture) Amplifier board capacitors. Speaker binding post Capacitors. Meter circuit capacitors
Delivery by Canada Post.
(Four main caps not included)

I highly recommend the UCC KYB, as they take a beating and have a huge 10000hr load life at 105C. Other than that all capacitors in this kit for the power supply are all nichicon muse FG, FW, VP, and DB. (Reason is, Although I could have done more upgrading with 105c etc, I felt using as much NIchicon (what yamaha came with), would be best for a resale value perspective. Yamaha valued Nichicon MUSE caps, and the big standard Nichicon BP-Ps near the meter section. However, I could not stop myself from using the UCC KYB for the highest voltage capactors, and upgrading non muse capacitors to 105 near heatsinks. (more UCC KYB for you here) Muse FG are upgraded voltage and size, filling the space better, as well as increasing operating life and quality. Boutique capacitors such as this are also BLING factor, so I made all the binding post capacitors Nichicon also. Black gates once again replaced with Nichicon MUSE fine gold.  
The four Nichicon BP-P near the meters, are actually speaker crossover specialty caps. Way back in the past, Yamaha was critiqued for using these capacitors,(if you can believe anyone could critique this amp lol), but Yamaha defended their use, claiming they provided superior performance. As a key capacitor still available new, I would never consider replacing them with anything else. Quite a monster capacitor for such a low UF value. They are also 3 times the cost to replace vs regular caps.


Lots of bipolar capacitors used, as they are superior to regular caps, as they are not subject to any adverse, or reverse voltage effects during operation. They also help to keep the size nice and beefy as todays regular capacitors are a lot smaller than those of the past.
This is all the capacitors you will need to recap the amplifier boards, The power supply, and the speaker binding post terminals, (protect circuit).
Seperate Kit for the MX 800 Also available. (MX 800 has no speaker binder post capacitors, as these capacitors are in the power supply section for this model. )

HELPFUL RECAPPING TIP'S FOR NEWBIES: ..............................YES YOU CAN DO IT!!!!!.
** Remember when you are desoldering the main traces holding the amplifier boards to the power supply to, NEVER touch the trace itself with your iron. Put iron on high 400 to 450 setting, and melt the solder at the amplifier board connecting pin. Watch for the wave of heat to flow through the solder and reach the trace. Soon as it reaches the trace use solder sucker to remove the solder. Avoid all contact with the trace at all times here. Once the solder is removed from all the pins you can remove the board. As long as the pin is no longer attached to the solder blob, job done!!! Does not have to be cleaned like a cat licking an ice cream bowl. Never apply any force to remove. I usually just use the solder sucker once on each pin. Then I go back to each pin with a compass tip. I reheat the PIN again and when i see if free itself from any remaining solder, I pull the pin up with the compass tip, wait a few seconds to let it cool, then release. Now the pin is free and the trace is left PERFECT. Then I move on to the next pin.
**When putting amplifier boards back,,,,, do not try and save on solder by pushing the pins closer to the traces. Let the pins ride nice and high and melt the solder at the amplifier pin again. Let it drop down onto the trace till it flows up to the pin in a big blop of solder..... NEVER TOUCH THE TRACE. This is the most critical part. 1/8th of an inch is actually a pretty good height for the pins when soldering back on. (If you do not listen to me and just solder the pins very close to the trace, if you ever need to remove your amplifier boards again, you will never be able to do it without serious damage to your traces!!.) If you ever see an MX series amp with damaged traces here, you now know why!. See picture of trace solder job, and pin height.
**See picture of angled solder tip!!. This tip makes it much easier to do the power supply without removing the whole supply from its mounts. Very difficult to do with a standard tip. I recommend not trying without one. Cheap tips and solder suckers are available from china direct for only a few dollars. I do the whole amplifier with this tip.
**If you do not have a big fancy solder station, make sure you at least have a 40 watt wand. These are available cheap. Use a cheap 60 watt wand for the amplifier pins. Once again if you are patient these wands are available for cheap direct from china. I use a wand and hot air, soldering station. (I just use standard silver bearing rosen core electrical solder, available at my local home depot)
**All the amplifier board transistors use thermal tape attached to the heatsinks, so no worries to buy new mica insulators, simply reinstall boards. Driver and biasing transistors.(4 smaller transistors in center of amp board), should be given small amount of thermal paste, when reinstalling. Again these transistors are self insulated, so no need to worry about buying new mica insulators for transitors. When reinstalling boards you need to make sure transistor screws go nicely in the hole. Gently back turn the screw until it seats then screw in. They sort of go in at a very slight angle as compared to straight in, If you damage the thermal tape buy not being careful here, then yes, you will need to cut that tape away and replace with a mica insulator. The insulator simply helps to transfer heat, as well as stops the transistor from shorting out on the amplifier heat sink.
Please take pictures of your boards before replacing capacitors, or mark down the polarity. I include a speaker terminal picture from an mx 1000 I recapped many years ago. Polarity is not marked on this board, so refer to this picture for polarity of capacitors. I did not have to disconnect any wiring to accomplish the speaker terminal board.
I have got thermal paste from china for a few dollars shipped, ten packs of solder tips for a few dollars shipped, even solder suckers for a few dollars each shipped. China is good for this stuff, just I do not recommend capacitors from china sellers, at least not the more expensive nichicon muse etc. Too easy to put that foil on a capacitor and call it anything!!. The reason it happens is even a capacitor for 2.00 is like a whole days pay over there for some people. That's why it is profitable to fake even the cheapest of parts.
ALL TOO OFTEN YOU SEE SELLERS SELLING YAMAHA AMPLIFIERS, AND SAYING, "ALL PARTS THAT NEEDED TO BE CHANGED HAVE BEEN CHANGED", WHEN SELLING SUPPOSEDLY RESTORED UNITS. USUALLY THEY NEVER SHOW THE WORK DONE VIA PICTURES. NOR WILL THEY TELL YOU IN DETAIL EVERYTHING THAT WAS DONE. HERE IS YOUR BEST OPPORTUNITY TO HAVE A PROPERLY RESTORED AMPLIFIER, CAPACITOR WISE. AFTER 25 YEARS, IT IS NECESSARY TO CHANGE ALL THE CAPACITORS!!!!. NOT SO HARD TO DO!!.






                   

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