Klone - Klon Centaur Clone - Overdrive Pedal #015

This is a klone of the Klon Centaur, complete with the magic diodes.

Some details about this unit:
Serial: 014
Diodes: Magic
Specs: Post-1994
Battery: None; requires power supply

There is no battery snap, so you will need a power supply. The DC jack accepts a 2.1mm 9V DC center negative plug, like most Boss and Ibanez pedals.

Please send me a message if you have any questions. Below is my Klone FAQ, if it doesn't answer your question, please feel free to shoot me a message.

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Here's a FAQ I put together from common questions:

How does this klone compare to the Soul Food/Archer/KTR/the other guys' klones?

I get this question a lot, but I feel kind of weird discussing other builders in a listing, so if you've got questions about other klones, please send me a message.

Does this klone have magic germanium diodes/unicorn tears?

Yes. Except that instead of coming from the other side of a Unicorn's tear ducts, they came out of a box that had been sitting in a warehouse for twenty years.

Is this the actual circuit? Or is it a striped down version?

Yep, it's the actual circuit. Charge pump, buffer, and everything. There are some stripped down versions out there, but this is the whole thing.

Is it True Bypass?

No, the real Klon is not true bypass either. The buffer is very good though. I don't hear any difference when I compare my buffered signal with a true bypass looper. For long cable runs or big pedal boards, the Klon buffer should also help keep your signal strong. It might not like being on front of vintage fuzz effects though, those like to be connected directly to your pickups without a buffer. The easiest thing to do is just place it after the fuzz.

Unicorn magic! Sparkles and rainbows! Mojo! Hype!

Well, first of all, unicorn magic went out of the world when the red bull drove them all into the sea. Everyone knows that. I don't believe in mojo, I do think the Klon is a well tuned circuit, even without the unicorn tear diodes.

What PCB do you use?

It's a reproduction of the original Klon PCB that I traced with vector graphics (so there's no cad file to share, sorry), with some minor alterations to avoid solder bridges and avoid trademark issues. I etch and drill the PCB by hand, for great mojo.

It it transparent or does it have a mid-hump? I keep hearing both. Which is it? Does it really only work its magic through a Fender?

Yes and no, and no and yes. Set clean, the Klon is transparent. The overdrive has a mid-hump that is noticeable as you turn up the gain. Used hamfistedly (run into a clean amp with the gain turned all the way up), there's a very noticeable mid-hump. Those Youtube videos comparing it to the Bad Monkey don't seem to get what the Klon is about. Generally, I've found that a truly transparent signal will often muddy up when used to push an already driven amp, so the mid-hump should actually help the Klon sound like your guitar and amp, but more, by keeping things tighter.I f you keep the gain between 10am and 1pm, and your amp is already on the verge of getting crunchy, that's when the Klon will sound its best.

The Klon was originally designed with a Fender amp in mind, but tweaked to sound good through most rigs. I'm a Marshall guy and I think it works great with British amps, provided you're using it sensibly.

The thing to keep in mind is that most overdrive pedals are designed as to sound good run into clean amps, meant to be used as their own little distortion channels. A lot of players use them to push already driven amps harder, but that's not what they were designed for. The Klon was one of the first pedals designed to do this specifically. It helps to think of it almost like a additional gain stage for your amp.

Can you make me one in another colour?

Sorry, I'm really bad at spray painting and I'm not set up for powder coating. I can only do bare enclosures with etched labeling, clear coated. This means that sometimes the serifs on the text can get a little blotchy, but the plus side is that the labeling will not scratch off like silk screened text. The clear coat may chip, but it won't get that old beat up look over time like most pedals. Since the pedal in the photo is the one you'll receive, you should be able to see any imperfections in the etch. Rarely, I use transparent automotive paint with varying results, but clear coats usually come out the best.

What is your return/warranty policy?

If you simply want to return the pedal for a refund, you can do so 7 days from receiving it with no questions asked (though I'd like to know what you didn't like about it so I can improve on it). You are responsible for all shipping charges. If there's something wrong with the pedal (intermittent switching, loose wire, something shorting, etc...), I will fix it and send it back to you, and maybe even compensate you for shipping depending on the circumstances. Basically, if I screwed something up, I'll make it right. If you break the pedal, I'm willing to repair it, but you are responsible for the shipping charges and possibly a small charge for parts and labour, depending on what broke. Just shoot me a message and we can figure out how to go about fixing it.

How do I know what power supply to use?

The jack should be 2.1mm, that's the standard size for stompboxes. When you look on the back of the power supply, you should see its specs. Always use 9V DC. Be careful that it doesn't put out AC. There should also be a little logo that tells you which parts of the jack are positive and negative. You want one with a negative center. A positive center will take out things out inside the pedal. Never run this pedal at more than 9V. There's a charge pump inside that doubles the voltage, so if you give it more than 9V, the charge pump will double that and it will start burning out components. Any adapter made for run-of-the-mill Boss or Ibanez pedals will work well. Visual Sound also makes the 1spot, which is one of the best power supplies on the market.

Shipping details?

I usually ship via USPS. I usually ship on Tuesdays and Thursdays, so please keep in mind that if you send payment on a Thursday, I probably won't be able to get it out that day and it won't be until the following Tuesday that I'll get an opportunity to get to the post office.

Is this the actual pedal or do I have to wait for one to be built after I order?

The pedal in the photo is the one that you are buying. It's already built and I've spend time playing through every one to make sure it sounds good and works without any issues. If it doesn't, I set it aside and come back to it a few weeks later to figure out why.

Any clips?

I'm working on it. I've finally got the recording gear, but I've got to make space for it and get it set up.

So what's different about the Klons made in '94?

Three parts. Supposedly, the only audible change was made for more lower mid response. I don't hear it myself, and my own later gold Centaur that I use as a benchmark seems to have just as much lower mids as the Lapiths. I wouldn't have even bothered, but I thought the idea of having the older specifications was cool. Due to component tolerance/drift, the knobs might need to be set a little differently, but I can dial them in to sound identical. I think the diodes matter more than the pre/post '94 specs.